Happy Veterans Day

"Thank you for your service. We appreciate your sacrifice."

Martinez Coin And Jewelry Exchange 

3755 Alhambra Ave Ste 1, Martinez, CA, United States, California

(925) 335-9500

martinezcoin@comcast.net

Tips for Purchasing Coins Online

 

First and foremost, research the reputation of the seller. This should go without saying, but eager buyers continue to be ripped off by a few people who are eager to dump their cleaned and damaged junk onto the unsuspecting, despite having been called on it multiple times by former customers. Most auction sites have the ability to review sellers and to read other buyers’ reviews.

Secondly, read and understand the seller’s return policy. If the coin in hand does not look like the coin in the photographs online, what can be done to rectify it? Will you get a full refund? Who pays shipping costs?

Thirdly, closely examine the photos of the coin. Photos should be straight on, not at an angle. Some sellers hide hairlines (signs of cleaning) and other problems by shooting the photograph at a sharp angle, causing the light to reflect differently and the hairlines not to show. You could request a different photograph from the seller, or you could simply move on to the next coin.

Fourthly, consider that many rare, or “key,” coins are being counterfeited in large numbers, mostly in China. It is a problem as old as money itself, and online auction sites are rife with counterfeits. Inexperienced numismatists can get excited over the cheap 1916-D mercury dime and think they’ve scored an auction win, only to send it off for grading and have it returned as a counterfeit. Therefore, as a rule, when buying key coins, only buy those certified and encapsulated by a reputable third party grader.

Lastly, avoid online coin sellers who claim they do not know anything about the coin, or coins in general, or are merely settling an estate. As a rule of thumb, these people do know, in fact, something about coins and use ignorance to create a layer of plausible deniability for when their problem coins are discovered.

While most people reading this have probably heard these bits of advice before, it never hurts to revisit the basics. Famous football coach Vince Lombardi used to begin each season by introducing himself to that year’s team of professionals by holding up a football and announcing, ”Gentlemen, this is a football.”5 Many were undoubtedly shocked or perhaps insulted that he would assert something so basic to a group of professionals. Lombardi’s position, however, was that each season he began with the most basic elements of the game. Instill excellence In the fundamentals. He believed without mastering those fundamentals, his team could never hope to achieve greatness. In the same way, numismatists should master these fundamentals and periodically review them.

Source

The 12 Different Types of US Coins

 

The United States coinage has evolved alongside the country’s long and diverse history.

Whether you are new to collecting or are just curious, learning about the types of US coins is exciting. It reveals an interesting aspect of our history, culture and heritage. If you are a collector, familiarizing yourself with these coins can help you organize your hobby in a way that allows you to collect the most valuable coins.

A Brief History of United States Coinage

Congress passed the Coinage Act of 1792 to create the country’s first mint in Philadelphia. The early currency, particularly the dollar, was pegged to the Spanish milled dollar. The result was three distinct coin categories, i.e. copper, silver and gold.

That said, our country’s history of circulating coins can be traced back to long before we had an official mint. Before the Philadelphia facility, people used foreign and locally made coins. Spanish milled dollars, German thalers, British pounds, and other smaller coins made by the various colonies were primarily in circulation during the Colonial Period. Following the Revolutionary War, the Articles of Confederation allowed the various states to create their own coins and coinage system. However, this liberal idea led to a lot of confusion and made inter-state trading cumbersome, as the same coin would be worth a different amount from one state to another.

The passage of the Coinage Act sought to end this confusion by establishing a national coinage that all states would use.

Here are the 12 different types of US Coins...

1. Half Cent

• The half-cent was the first and smallest currency the United States Mint struck after introducing the Coinage Act in 1792. First produced in 1793, half cents were made from copper at the Philadelphia facility.

• Production of half cents continued until 1857, when a congressional act stopped further minting of these coins.

• Because most of the early dies were handmade, United States half-cents have more varieties and errors than any other coin in the country’s coinage history.

2. One Cent

• The next coin to be launched in 1793 after the passing of the Coinage Act of 1792 was the one-cent coin, later known as a penny.

• Like the half-cent coins, cents have numerous varieties and errors as they were struck from unique, handmade dies.
• Starting in 1856, the mint adjusted the size of the one cent, opting for a smaller penny due to the rising cost of copper. The Mint struck its first cupro-nickel penny with a smaller diameter in 1856.

3. Two Cents

• In 1864, a Congressional Act changed several features of the one-cent coin, including the metallic composition and the weight. This same Act also introduced the two-cent coin.
• The United States two-cent coin was struck from 1864 to 1872. The coin bears a shield reverse resembling that of a five-cent coin. It is among the coins with the shortest lifespan in our coinage history.

4. Three Cents

• The United States Mint introduced the three cents coin in 1851, the smallest coin by size in the country’s coinage history.

• Until 1853, the three cents, which measures 14 millimetres in diameter, was struck in 75 per cent silver. The Mint then changed the coin’s composition to 75 per cent copper and 25 per cent nickel due to the skyrocketing prices of silver.

• The new copper-nickel three-cent coin was also enlarged to measure 17.9 millimetres in diameter. 

5. Five Cents (Half Dimes and Nickels)

• Half dimes were among the earliest coins struck after the Coinage Act of 1792. The Mint produced these silver coins until 1873.
• Faced with high silver prices, the Mint halted production of silver half dimes in 1866, replacing them with five-cent coins, aptly known as nickels.

• Nickels are still in production, with the most current being the Jefferson nickel with a large portrait on the obverse and the new Monticello on the reverse.

6. Ten Cents (Dimes)

• Also known as dimes, ten-cent coins were among the Mint’s earliest currencies. Struck in 1796, the dime is still in use today despite undergoing numerous design changes.
• The ten-cent coin closely resembles the half-dime design. These coins were struck in silver until 1964 when copper and nickel replaced silver as the metal of choice for coin production.

To continue learning about the 12 different types of US coins click here... to view the other six coins.

Counterfeit Recognition: How to Tell if Money Is Fake

 

Counterfeiting money is a crime, there is no doubt about it. And, like any other crime, it is present in our society. It's not only the police's or National Bank's job to look after the validity of banknotes; it is our duty as well. That's why we deem it highly important to know how to tell if money is fake.

In order to avoid being victims of counterfeiting money, we could use some knowledge and tricks to tell us if the money is fake. We don't have to be professionals, but we all know how money banknotes look.

How Does Counterfeit Work?

Each paper note has a denomination, text, watermarks, inks, and other details. US banknotes are made from note paper - a blend of cotton and linen. Based on those characteristics, there are several ways to tell if a bill is genuine or counterfeit.

Fake bills can be done with a lot of precision, but there are always ways to check. Your gut sending you red flag alerts is a reason enough to do a quick test of the bill. People who work retail usually have this feeling and know how to tell if money is fake. They present a huge and essential dam against counterfeiting. Fake bills show up in different denominations, and unfortunately for businesses, it often goes unchecked. Money laundering is a process of bleaching authentic bills with smaller denominations and printing them to look like $50 or $100 notes.

However, the counterfeiters figured out that the suspicion a retailer might have towards a $100 bill disappears when a smaller note is in question. US officials seized around $1 million in fake one-dollar bills in 2019.

Since there is no way to stop the attempts of creating fake bills, we - the workers, citizens, and business owners - need to be on the lookout for these forgeries.

Color-Shifting Ink

Crime amateurs won't fall for this one, but if we want to rule out forgery, we have to check if the bill denomination on the bottom right-hand corner has color-shifting ink. Every produced bill since 1996 has this trademark.

To check if what you have is a counterfeit currency, tilt it from side to side and look at the number in the upper right corner. The color of the number should change as you shift the bill.

Check the Watermark

Watermark is embedded in the paper to the right of the portrait. You can see it from both sides of the bill, but testing the authenticity will require holding the bill against some source of light. Also, if the watermark is a face, it should match the portrait of the bill.

It is not unusual for counterfeits to bleach bills with smaller denominations and reprint them with higher values. They are easily exposed upon authentication because, in that case, the face doesn't match the watermark.

If there aren't any watermarks - that's an easy indicator that the money is fake. Similarly, if you can see a watermark without the light source, that is proof of counterfeit.

Any Kind of Blurryness is a Red Flag

It is as simple as this: if you notice blurry borders, printing, or text, you are looking at signs of dealing with fake money. Authentic bills are highly detailed, with precise lines, dots, and negative space. There is nothing blurry on an original banknote.

When it comes to this item of a counterfeit check, the first thing you are going to check is note borders. All you need is a magnifying glass and a good sight. Microprinting on the note borders must be readable using this tool. If you can not read it - it's a fake!

Raised Printing

Not everything is tested by sight. If you want to know how to tell if money is fake, you need to open your senses. Use your sense of touch and figure out whether you're holding the real or the fake one.

When you run your fingernail down the note, you should feel some vibrations on the nail from the ridges of the raised printing. This is the result of the uniqueness of the paper and the intaglio printing process. The lack of vibrations should ring a bell, and you should further inspect the bill.

Security Thread with Microprinting

The security thread consists of a thin ribbon threaded through the note's paper. The material of the thread can be made out of plastic or metal foil, and the thread itself can contain engraved text or numbers.

Like a watermark, once you hold up the banknote to the light, the strip should appear in the form of a solid line. Each line has USA and the denomination number printed in letters. For example, the $5 bill will have USA FIVE.

Not every USD note has a security strip in the same area. For example, you can find it to the right of the portrait on the $10 and $50 bills. In contrast, the thread is located on the left of the portrait of the $5, $20, and $100 bills.

Ultraviolet Light

Ultraviolet flashes are accessible, you can easily buy them and many businesses provide them for their floor workers. The ultraviolet glow is a great tool for telling if money is fake.

Real money will not glow under ultraviolet light, rather only the security threads will. The one-dollar banknote is unique, as it has no thread and thus has no glow.

Each denomination thread will glow a different color - $5 has blue security fibers, $10 glows orange, $20 has green fibers, $50 glows yellow, and $100 will be red.

What to Do in Case of Counterfeit Recognition?

There are probably thousands of counterfeit bills in circulation right now, and many retail workers are, unfortunately, held accountable for this misfortune. Knowing how to tell if money is fake is not only a matter of national economic security, it is about safeguarding businesses and jobs of the people who work at the counters.

If you spot counterfeit bills, don’t put yourself in danger. Don’t check the bills in front of the person that gave them to you, don’t yell at them, and don’t try to catch them yourself. Observe a person who gave you the counterfeit notes - everything from facial features to a license plate number, but from a safe distance. After you’ve acquired information about the potential fraudster, hold on to the note and check the above mentioned items. After you’ve established that your suspicions are reasonable, contact the authorities. Treasury suggests contacting the local US Secret Service office along with local police. Source

Why Are Some Coins Painted Red?

  

 

Some junk silver coins are painted red. Junk silver quarters and junk silver dimes can be painted red. These coins were painted red so that a business owner could put them in the juke box and get their coins back when the money was collected. 

Collecting U.S. Coins

 

Collecting U.S. coins is a popular numismatic pursuit, but deciding exactly how to collect them is not necessarily an easy task. Our nation's rich history and the eclectic artistry of its coinage have inspired many different approaches to collecting, with each option having a distinctive appeal.

Assembling a collection by denomination provides a nice overview of 200+ years of U.S. regular-issue coinage. Some denominations are familiar - cents, nickels, dimes and quarters are used every day. Others, like half dollars and dollars, are elusive, but still contemporary. Obsolete fractional issues, such as the once-popular half-cent, the Civil War-era 2-cent piece, the surprisingly useful 3-cent coin, and the short-lived 20-cent piece, are charming in their eccentricity.

Most U.S. denominations have experienced changes in their physical characteristics over time, and those variations can be the basis for collecting by size and composition. Dollars are a great example: during the 19th century, there were standard silver dollars, slightly larger Trade dollars and tiny gold dollars. In the 1970s, large copper­-nickel dollar coins were replaced with a smaller version, and those, in turn, gave way to this century's golden dollars (golden in appearance, not content).

Other denominations have been modified as well. There are large cents, and there are small cents. Three-cent pieces and 5-cent coins come in both silver and copper-nickel versions. Dimes and quarters switched from silver to copper­ nickel in 1965; half dollars did the same in 1971 after a brief, interim period of 40-percent silver.

Of course, money is more than just metal, and collecting by design type embraces the diversity of American coin design. A "type" is defined by its major motif, for example, Indian Head cents, Barber dimes or Peace dollars. The 18th, 19th and 20th centuries already offered an abundance of "types," but during the 21st century, state, territorial, and national parks quarters, and Sacagawea, Native American and Presidential Dollars, have taken design diversity to an entirely new level.

Where a type collection includes exactly one coin of each design, collecting by subtype involves multiples. Consider the Lincoln cent, which is fertile ground for subtype collecting. Over the course of more than a century, our most common coin has been made of bronze, zinc-plated steel, brass and copper-plated zinc. And it's had seven, different reverse designs—four in 2009 alone.

Subtypes can also be defined by partial design changes. For example, the word "CENTS" was added to the Liberty Head nickel in 1883, and there are "raised mound" and "recessed mound" Buffalo nickels of 1913.

Going beyond types and subtypes is the approach of concentrated collecting. The idea is to choose a compact set of coins that includes every major subtype within a series, every decade of the series' lifespan, and every mint that coined the series. For any series, there are many different ways to create a concentrated collection. For example, the following three coins constitute a concentrated collection of Standing Liberty quarters: 1917-D (Type 1), 1925(-P) and 1930-S. Alternatively, a 1917-S (Type 1), 1924-D and a 1930(-P) would serve the same purpose, as would a 1917(-P, Type 1),1927-D and 1930-S.

Countless other combinations are possible. Whatever specific pieces you choose, concentrated collecting allows you to capture the essence of a series with a small number of coins.

Learn more on this topic here...

History of the Panamanian Balboa: From Past to Present

 

Are you captivated by the allure of currency history and the stories embedded within each coin? Got a collection of coins from every nook and cranny of the globe? The official currency of Panama has a long and rich history spanning over five centuries, dating back to the time the first Spanish explorer, Vasco Núñez de Balboa, set foot on the isthmus of Panama. 

First things first – Why is Panama money called balboa? Well, the national currency of Panama, the Panamanian balboa, is named after Vasco Núñez de Balboa – the Spanish explorer who discovered the Pacific Ocean in 1513 after crossing the isthmus of Panama.

He was the first European to see the vast body of water that separates North and South America from Asia, claimed it for the Spanish crown, and established the first permanent European settlement in Panama, Santa María la Antigua del Darién. Balboa’s discovery opened the way for international trade and colonization in the region, and he became the governor of the province of Panama.

1904 – The Cornerstone

His legacy is honored by the Panamanian people, who adopted his name for their currency in 1904 when Panama gained its independence from Colombia. The balboa replaced the Colombian peso, which had been the official currency of Panama since 1821 when Panama joined the Gran Colombia, a federation of former Spanish colonies. The balboa was equivalent to the US dollar right from the start and backed by silver coins minted in Panama.

As liberty prevailed, the wave of change brought forth the debut of fresh silver coins in values of 2 1/2, five, 10, 25, and 50 céntimos. Subsequently, the currency expanded to encompass denominations of one-tenth, one-fourth, one-half, 1 1/4, and one céntimo. These Panamanian coins not only mirrored the size but also replicated the metallic composition akin to those found in the coinage issued by the United States, adding a fascinating layer to the evolving currency landscape.

The Dual Currency System

The Panamanian balboa is part of a unique currency arrangement that allows Panama to use both the Balboa and the US dollar. This system, known as the dual currency system, was established in 1904 when Panama signed a treaty with the United States and adopted the US dollar as its legal tender, granting the latter the right to build and operate the Panama Canal – a strategic waterway that connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.

In exchange, the US agreed to provide Panama with economic and military assistance and to guarantee its sovereignty and independence. The dual currency system has several advantages for Panama, such as:

• It facilitates financial transactions and international trade with the US and other countries, as the US dollar is widely accepted and trusted around the world and considered a "safe-haven" currency.
• It eliminates the risk of currency exchange rate fluctuations and currency devaluation, as the Balboa is pegged to the US dollar at a fixed rate of one-to-one (1:1), with the dollar being a reliable currency.

However, it also has some drawbacks, such as:

• It limits the autonomy and flexibility of the Panamanian government to respond to economic shocks or crises, as it cannot use monetary policy tools such as interest rates or inflation targets to adjust the economy.
• It exposes Panama to the economic conditions and policies of the US, as any changes in the US dollar’s value or demand can affect the Panamanian economy.
• It creates a dependency on the US, as Panama has to rely on the US for its currency reserves and liquidity.

Despite these challenges, the dual currency system has proven to be successful and beneficial for Panama, as it has contributed to its economic development and annual growth.

The Rise and Fall of the Balboa Banknotes

The Balboa coins enjoyed a period of stability and popularity until the 1930s when the global economic crisis and the devaluation of the US dollar affected the exchange rate and the value of the Balboa. The Panamanian government, with President Dr. Arnulfo Arias, decided to introduce paper money, or banknotes, in 1941, which were also equivalent to the US dollar and issued by the Banco Central de Emisión de la República de Panamá.

The banknotes were printed in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 Balboas and featured the portraits of prominent Panamanian figures. However, the banknote issue was short-lived. A mere week later, a military coup ousted Arias from power, replacing him with Ricardo Adolfo de la Guardia Arango. The Banco Central de Emisión was dissolved in 1949, and all Balboa banknotes were withdrawn from circulation.

The remnants of these banknotes are now rare treasures, known colloquially as the "Seven Days’ Notes" or the "Arias issues," and hold significant value among collectors to this very day.

The Pulse of the Panamanian Economy

The Panamanian government faced several political and economic challenges in the following decades, such as corrupt governments, fraudulent elections, military coups, and US interventions. The Balboa coins remained in use, but they were overshadowed by the US dollar, which became the dominant currency for daily transactions and international transactions.

Throughout this period, Panama continued to use U.S. banknotes alongside the Balboa, emphasizing its strong economic ties with the U.S. Wondering what currency is mostly used in Panama? The Balboa coins are mostly used for small change and everyday transactions, while the US dollar is used for larger purchases and savings. Panama's economy relies predominantly on the services sector, constituting nearly 80% of its GDP.

What about the modern times? In the third quarter of 2023, Panama's economy showed significant growth, expanding by 9% compared to the previous year. Looking at the broader trend, the country's Gross Domestic Product (GDP) Annual Growth Rate has seen an average increase of 5.91% from 2010 to 2023.

Notably, the second quarter of 2021 witnessed a remarkable high with a growth rate of 43.90%, while the second quarter of 2020 experienced a record low with a decline of -36.20%. These figures reflect the dynamic nature of Panama's economic performance in recent years. 

The Features of the Panamanian Balboa

The Panamanian balboa currency code is PAB (numeric: 590) and is composed of coins in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 cents or 100 centésimos, and 1 and 2 Balboas. The coins are issued by the National Bank of Panama, one of the two public banks in the country since Panama has never had an official central bank. The coins are mostly used for everyday transactions, such as buying groceries, paying bus fares, or tipping service workers.

What does Panamanian balboa look like? The Balboa coins have various designs and motifs that reflect the historical significance and national symbols of Panama, such as the bust of Vasco Núñez de Balboa, the namesake of the currency, on the obverse of the 1 Balboa coin, and the coat of arms of Panama on the reverse.

The Panamanian balboa does not have any banknote issue, as the US dollar is used for large transactions and international transactions. The US dollar bills circulate freely in Panama and are accepted by all businesses and institutions. The US dollar bills are also known as private currency, as the Panamanian government does not issue them, but by the Federal Reserve System of the US. Source

Mint Marks

 

Mint marks are letters that identify where a coin was made. They hold the maker responsible for the quality of a coin. When the U.S. used precious metals such as gold and silver to make circulating coins, a commission evaluated the metal compositions and quality of coins from each of the Mint facilities. The evaluations ensured that each facility produced coins to the correct specifications.

Philadelphia was the only branch in operation in the Mint’s earliest years, so identifying the sources of a coin was not necessary. A March 3, 1835 Congressional Act established mint marks in the United States, along with the first Mint branches. When the Mint branches in Charlotte, Dahlonega, and New Orleans opened in 1838, mint marks made their first appearance on U.S. coins. However, the practice of not identifying Philadelphia’s coins continued even after the first branches were established.

This changed in 1942. When nickel was removed from five-cent coins during World War II, the “P” mint mark first appeared on coins produced in Philadelphia. The mark’s position also moved from the right of Monticello to above the dome to indicate the new metal composition. After the war, when use of the regular alloy resumed, the mint mark returned to its former position and the Mint no longer used Philadelphia’s “P.”

In 1979, the Susan B. Anthony dollar coin was introduced. Once again, the “P” mint mark appeared. The following year, the “P” appeared on all of the denominations except the cent, which still holds true today.

Mint Mark Facts

No mint marks appeared on circulating coins from 1965 to 1967. The Coinage Act of 1965 eliminated mint marks to discourage collecting while the Mint worked to meet the country’s coinage needs.

Mint marks were placed on the reverse of coins until 1968 when they moved to the obverse.

The San Francisco Mint made circulating coins with the “S” mint mark from 1854 to 1955. After that, they produced “S” circulating coins from:

• 1968-1974: pennies
• 1968-1970: nickels
• 1979-1981: dollars

In 1968, proof coin production moved from the Philadelphia Mint to San Francisco and proof coins gained the “S” mint mark.

The West Point Bullion Depository made circulating pennies from 1973 to 1986 and circulating quarters in 1976 to 1979. The San Francisco Mint also produced circulating pennies around this time. These coins did not have mint marks so that they couldn’t be distinguished from Philadelphia coins.

In 2017, the “P” mint mark appeared for the first time on circulating pennies. This change was only for the 2017 issued cents, in honor of the U.S. Mint’s 225th anniversary.

In 2019, the “W” mint mark appeared for the first time on a circulating coin. The West Point Mint produced 10 million quarters in the 2019 America the Beautiful Quarters Program.

Most medals don’t have mint marks. The Philadelphia Mint makes Congressional Gold Medals and their bronze duplicates, Presidential Medals, and most others. But for certain numismatic silver medals, other Mint facilities may help. The Mint places the mint mark on some of these medals for marketing reasons. The mark can be on the obverse or reverse side, depending on how it fits into the design.

Source

What Do You Do With Inherited Jewelry?

 

If you have inherited jewelry, there are several options you can consider. Ultimately, the decision of what to do with inherited jewelry depends on your personal preferences and financial needs.

For instance, jewelry in good condition can be worn and become part of your wardrobe. Likewise, if the jewelry has sentimental value, you may choose to keep it as a cherished family heirloom or have it remade into a more modern design. 

However, if you don’t want to keep the jewelry, you can always donate or sell it. You can take it to a jewelry store or a pawn shop for a quick appraisal, or you can sell it through an online auction site or a jewelry dealership.

What Is the Etiquette for Inherited Jewelry?

There is no one set of rules for the etiquette of inherited jewelry, as it can vary greatly depending on the family’s culture, beliefs, and traditions. 

However, in general, the most important thing is to respect the wishes of the deceased. If the person who left you the jewelry expressed a specific wish for how it should be used or passed on, you should honor their request.

Additionally, if multiple people have inherited jewelry, it’s crucial to have open and honest communication with each other to avoid any misunderstandings. If the jewelry is to be divided among family members, do so in a fair and equitable way.

Is It OK To Sell Inherited Jewelry?

Yes, it is perfectly fine to sell inherited jewelry if you don’t want to keep it. 

Inherited jewelry is considered personal property, and you have the right to do with it as you please. People choose to sell their inherited jewelry for various reasons, such as raising funds for a major purchase, paying off debts, or supporting their lifestyle.

However, it’s important to be mindful of the sentimental value that the jewelry may hold for other family members or for future generations. If you do choose to sell the jewelry, it’s a good idea to communicate your decision with the rest of your family.

Who Gets Jewelry When Someone Dies?

When someone dies, the distribution of their jewelry and other personal property is determined by the terms of their will or trust. If they passed away without any estate planning documents in place, then the state intestacy laws will determine who gets the jewelry. 

A will or trust is a legally binding document that outlines the distribution of a person’s assets, including jewelry, after they die. If the deceased person had a will or trust, their jewelry will be distributed according to the instructions specified in that document.

If the deceased person did not have a will or trust, the state laws of intestacy would come into play. These laws vary by jurisdiction, but typically dictate that the jewelry and other assets are distributed to the deceased person’s closest relatives, such as their spouse or children. If the deceased person was unmarried and had no children, the jewelry may be distributed to other relatives, such as siblings, parents, or grandparents.

How Do You Fairly Distribute Jewelry After Death?

In many instances, jewelry will be distributed according to the deceased person’s wishes, as explained by their estate planning documents. If the deceased person had a will or trust, it should specify how their jewelry and other assets are to be distributed. This can provide a clear roadmap for the distribution process.

However, in situations where the deceased person did not leave a will or trust or it does not specify how particular pieces of jewelry should be distributed, it is essential to split it fairly among heirs, in proportion to the share of the estate they are entitled to receive.

Knowing the market value of each piece can help determine its worth and ensure that it is distributed fairly. If there is any confusion or disagreement about the value of the jewelry, a professional appraiser can provide an independent evaluation that can help resolve any disputes.

How Do You Separate Inherited Jewelry Between Siblings?

While the deceased person’s will and trust may dictate how specific pieces of jewelry should be distributed, if there are no instructions or estate planning documents provided, the personal representative may be placed in the challenging position of deciding how to fairly distribute a jewelry collection. Separating inherited jewelry between siblings can be difficult and emotional, especially if multiple people want to keep certain pieces.

When making these decisions, it’s important for the personal representative to respect the deceased’s wishes as much as possible while also providing for a fair distribution of the estate’s assets. For instance, a family member that wants to keep a valuable piece of jewelry may elect to give up a portion of their monetary inheritance to ensure all siblings receive an equal share of the estate. 

What If Siblings Fight Over the Jewelry?

If siblings fight over jewelry that is part of the estate of a deceased parent and there is no guidance in the will or trust on how it should be distributed, a creative solution may be the best choice. One option would be to rotate possession of certain pieces of jewelry between the siblings who want it while maintaining shared ownership. Or, it may be better to simply sell all the jewelry and split the proceeds.

Even if you hope to resolve the situation amicably, it’s always a good idea to involve a probate litigation attorney as soon as a dispute arises. An experienced lawyer can help you negotiate with your siblings to reach a mutually-agreeable compromise, and, if you cannot come to an understanding, they can help represent your interests in court. 

Source

What Is A Panda?

 

 

Chinese Silver Pandas, which feature the adorable bear endemic to the region, are a popular choice among investors and collectors of international bullion coins. The history of the Silver Panda has inconsistent beginnings, but it has since settled into a position of worldwide acclaim as high-quality and beautifully designed silver bullion.

The obverse of the Silver Panda is redesigned each year, but always features a panda bear. The panda is generally depicted in its natural habitat among a forest of bamboo shoots. It is worth noting that the Chinese panda is also available as a gold coin.

The Taoist Temple of Heaven of Beijing stands on the Silver Panda’s reverse. This temple was completed in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty. Its main purpose was to provide a sanctuary for Chinese royalty and other elites to worship. While the panda on the obverse has changed many times, the Temple design has largely remained the same (with only a slight alteration in 1987 to accommodate a weight and purity change in the coin).

Early Production

The first Silver Panda was released with a proof finish in 1983, following the success of the Chinese Gold Panda that was released the previous year. From 1983 to 1985, Silver Pandas weighed less than an ounce and contained only .900 fine silver, which is less than most standard bullion coins. No Silver Pandas were produced in 1986.

In 1987, the weight and purity of Silver Pandas were adjusted to meet customer demand and expectations. For many years from 1987, each Panda weighed one troy ounce and consisted of .999 fine silver. No Silver Pandas were produced in 1988. The lack of production in 1986 and 1988 is likely attributed to the mint focusing on other products with a higher priority at the time.

In 1989, Silver Pandas with a BU finish were released. It was also this year that a “P” was placed on the obverse of proof Silver Pandas.

Growing Popularity

By the mid-1990s, Silver Pandas began getting a new panda design each year. This greatly pleased many collectors who wanted to add each loveable bear to their bullion portfolios. However, the Chinese Mint kept the same panda design for two consecutive years in 2001 and 2002. After protests from loyal consumers, new annual panda designs resumed in 2003 and continue to this day.

In 2016, Silver Pandas were switched from troy ounces to grams because the metric system appealed to more international consumers. While not exactly the same weight, the one troy ounce Panda was replaced by the 30 gram Panda.

Minting History

From the Silver Panda’s debut until 1989, the coins were manufactured solely in Shanghai. As the coins grew more popular, it was clear that the mintage quantities had to be increased. In 1990, Silver Pandas were minted in both Shanghai and Shenyang. A third minting location of Shenzhen was added in 1999. Silver Pandas are now minted in Beijing as well, marking four regular minting locations across the country.

In 1998, a one kilo silver coin was added to the series and exactly 1,988 were produced that year. 1,999 one kilo coins were produced in 1999 and 2,000 were produced in 2000. Production quantities were then capped until 2003. From 2003 to the present, 4,000 one kilo silver coins have been produced each year.

Chinese Silver Pandas do not carry mintmarks even though there are multiple mint locations. Having these coins produced at various mints sometimes results in slight variations on the coins, which instantly become treasures for collectors.

Silver Pandas are minted in relatively low quantities each year, especially when compared to the Chinese population as a whole. Granted, not all Chinese citizens will buy Silver Pandas, so plenty are sold abroad. If you intend to invest in Silver Pandas, don’t miss your chance to own each year’s unique design. The iconic bears have captured the hearts of many, while providing immense value to your precious metals portfolio.

Why Should I Invest in the Silver Panda?

The Chinese silver Panda is now one of the most coveted coins among silver bullion investors and coin enthusiasts. Because each coin consists of .999 fine silver, and is minted and guaranteed by a sovereign government, the Silver Panda may be included in a self-directed precious metals IRA.

Also, limited mintages, and design anomalies between minting locations make the Silver Panda high sought for by coin collectors.

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Coin Collecting Tips for Beginners

 

Many people begin their coin-collecting journey by finding an interesting coin in their pocket change, inheriting a coin collection or acquiring a few coins by some other means. Other people think they have found a rare and valuable coin and are looking to get rich quick. Regardless of where you start, here are some tips that will ensure you have a long and profitable coin collecting journey.

1.) Start Simple and Small

Unless you are a millionaire and a thousand-dollar mistake won't bother you, you'll want to ease into the hobby and learn the ropes before you make any major purchases. Start with smaller coin purchases and coin sets that are easy to assemble. Take the time to learn about the coins, their history, how to grade them, and coin pricing.

Many great coin collectors started by assembling a set of Lincoln pennies. They are still found in circulation, and most can be purchased for a moderate price at a local coin show, coin shop, or online. If your budget is a little larger, you may want to start with building a collection of Indian Head pennies or collecting a type set of United States coins.

2.) Collect What You Like

Many people ask, "What should I collect?" The short answer is, "Collect what you like!" Select coins or a series of coins that interest you. It may be a fascinating design on the coin, the history behind the coin or a story that is associated with the coin. Use the Internet to research the history of a coin or to learn about its origins. However, be careful if you purchase coins on the Internet. They may be overpriced or counterfeit.

Regardless, if the coin piques your interest you will be more likely to learn about them and that education will help you avoid costly mistakes in your coin collecting journey. The Lincoln penny is rich in history and has some great stories behind some of the coins. Some young collectors collect world coins that have a common theme, such as queens, fish, buildings, flowers, etc. The possibilities are endless and it can be as interesting as you make it. Finally, as you begin your coin collecting journey be careful not to fall into the trap of trying to "making a quick buck." You will meet people and unscrupulous coin dealers that will try to sell you coins at bargain-basement prices. You will soon find out that the old adage of "if it's too good to be true, it probably is" will hold true in this situation. Stick with collecting what you like and purchase your coins from a trusted coin dealer.

3.) Handle Coins Carefully & Store Them Properly

Although coins are made of metal and we tend to think of metal is very tough, the surface of a coin is very delicate and can be damaged easily. Different metals will react differently with the atmosphere around them.

Practicing safe coin storage and handling techniques will protect the value of your coins for generations to come. Handle your coins wearing cotton or latex gloves. If these are not available, then only handle the coin by its edge. Most importantly, never clean a coin! Coin dealers will be able to tell that has been cleaned and it will be considered a "damaged coin." This will greatly reduce its value or possibly make it worthless.

4.) It's Not a Race

Building a solid collection of coins that will appreciate over time is not a race. In fact, most coin collectors who hurry with their purchases end up getting frustrated very quickly and losing money when it comes time to sell their coin collections. Take your time and learn about the particular coins before you purchase them.

Also, don't purchase the first coin that comes along. Wait for the coin that is the quality you are seeking and is being offered at a reasonable price that you are willing to pay. Done right, coin collecting is a hobby that can last a lifetime.

5.) Buy the Book

There is an old adage that states "Buy the book before you buy the coin." People who have sold their coin collections for hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of dollars not only followed these simple rules, but also took the time to learn about the coins they were collecting. The Internet is a great source of information and, unfortunately, misinformation. A great book for the beginner as well as the seasoned collector is The Guide Book of United States Coins, also known as the Red Book. Take the time to read the introductory chapters of this book and gain an education before you jump into the pricing information that it is also known for.

6.) Magazines and Websites

 Because you're reading this article right now, it shows that you are looking for more information about coin collecting. There are popular coins collecting magazines such as: Coin World and Numismatic News. Coin related websites can also be a great source of information but be careful of websites that are just trying to sell you overpriced coins.

7.) Join a Coin Club

One of the best ways to learn more about coins and keep your interest in coin collecting alive is to join a coin club. Many cities and towns across the United States have local coin clubs. A quick Internet search will tell you if one is nearby. The American Numismatic Association (ANA) is the largest organization dedicated to numismatic education in the country. Also, there are various specialty coin clubs that focus on error coins, early American copper coins, Liberty Seated type coins, etc. Regardless of your area of interest or level of expertise, there is a coin club that will meet your needs.

8.) Visit a Coin Show or Coin Shop

Many coins can be purchased online. Unfortunately, this does not give you the opportunity to hold, inspect and compare the coins you are about to purchase. By visiting a coin show or local coin shop, you will be able to evaluate the coin firsthand before you purchase it. Additionally, a trusted coin dealer can provide you with valuable information that will help you with your purchase. Many coin shows also hold mini-seminars that help new collectors hone their coin collecting skills.

9.)Have a Plan

Before you start a coin collection, do some research as to how much money it will take to assemble the collection. If there are some showstopper coins, that doesn't mean you shouldn't start that particular collection. You may have to save up or wait until you have enough disposable income to buy the more expensive coins.

Set up a spreadsheet to list the coins you need to complete that particular collection. Also, list the estimated cost of each coin and what grade you are looking to purchase. As you purchased the coins check them off your list so you don't purchase duplicate coins.

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War Nickels; What They Are And Why To Search For Them

 

Here is a short educational video about war nickels

Bullion Buying Checklist

  

Following the checklist below is encouraged when buying or selling gold or silver bullion coins;

1. The reputation and expertise of your bullion dealer is important. 

Your dealer needs to be a respected name in the industry with experience buying and selling bullion in fluctuating markets. ANA dealers must adhere to a strict code of ethics. 

2. Know the actual cost per ounce of precious metals. 

Gold, silver, and platinum prices fluctuate daily, so check that day’s spot price prior to making a transaction. Expect to pay a higher percentage over melt value for fractional gold pieces (1/10th, 1/4th, and 1/2 ounce) than for one-ounce pieces. Also, American Eagle and Canadian Maple Leaf bullion coins typically have a higher retail price than South African Kruggerrand bullion coins.

3. Understand the fees and/or commissions involved. 

According to the Professional Numismatists Guild, the average retail commission for one-ounce American Eagle or Maple Leaf gold coins is about five or six percent.

4. Arrange for timely delivery.

If immediate delivery is not possible, obtain from the seller in writing specific confirmation about the delivery date. Only then should you execute your order.

5. Know that all investments come with risks. 

If you intend to buy bullion coins for investment purposes, your best protection is to spend time learning about the coins before you buy them. Uninformed buyers who make hasty purchases often overpay. Like any investment, there are no guarantees – and no one can predict with certainty that gold and silver prices will remain at the current levels or continue to appreciate.

6. Protect against identity theft. 

Do not give out credit card numbers or bank account numbers or other private information such as Social Security numbers over the phone to anyone not known to you. Source

The Hobby Of Kings And The Rise Of Numismatics

 

The main difference between coin collecting before and after the Renaissance is the development of an active market. With the new wave of interest, demand for antique coins greatly exceeded the available supply. During the 15th and 16th centuries, ancient-coin collecting became the “hobby of kings,” and the list of collectors is a list of European nobility. At the same time, famous artists were employed by these patrons to create replicas of ancient coins and portrait or commemorative medals, which became collectible in their own right. The appetite of collectors fueled a cottage industry of agents and prompted a search of source lands for salable artifacts. As might be expected, the insatiable market created such demand that it also fostered the introduction of forgeries.

By the 17th century, the nature of collecting had shifted slowly toward serious research. As a result, very broad collections were formed, studied, and cataloged. Numismatics became an academic pursuit, and many important treatises were published during that period. The involvement of institutions and the rise of public collections in the 18th century led to sponsorship of academic study, which elevated numismatics to the stature of a science. Most important, the exchange of information and new discoveries was formalized through detailed and widely published treatises on the topic of coins and collecting. Many of the large private collections of noble families came under state control during this period, and the subsequent cataloging of these holdings added volumes to existing knowledge. This information was readily available to the general public, and coin collecting became a pursuit of middle-class merchants and members of the various professions who were growing in numbers as well as cultural sophistication. Collecting ancient coins is one of the few ways that the average person can own actual objects from antiquity, and this point was not lost on the growing collector base. Coins are remarkably accessible pieces of history. Source

Circulated vs. Uncirculated Coins: What’s the Difference and Why Does it Matter?

 

There are two primary types of coins: circulated and uncirculated. 

The main difference between these two types of coins is their condition. 

• Circulated coins have been used in everyday transactions and thus have been subject to wear and tear. Circulated coins are made using a process called “minting,” which involves stamping the coin design onto a blank coin. 
• Uncirculated coins have never been used in circulation and are thus in pristine condition.Uncirculated coins are made using a process called “plating,” which involves coating a blank coin with a thin layer of metal.

What Are The Different Grades Of Uncirculated Coins

There are two different grades of uncirculated coins: business strike and proof. 

• Business strike coins are struck for circulation, while proof coins are specially made for collectors. 
• Proof coins are more carefully struck, resulting in a higher-quality finish. 

The Sheldon numerical system is also used for grading coins. Under this system, uncirculated coins can be graded from MS60 (barely uncirculated) to MS70 (perfect). If you’re new to collecting or investing in coins, circulated coins may be an excellent place to start. They’re usually more affordable than uncirculated coins and can still be quite collectible.

How Can You Spot the Difference between Circulated and Uncirculated Coins?

You can spot the difference between circulated and uncirculated coins in a few ways.

• Look at the coin’s surface. Circulated coins will have scratches and wear from handling, while uncirculated coins will be free of these marks. 
• Look at the coin’s edge. Circulated coins often have nicks or gouges, while uncirculated coins have smooth edges. 
• Look at the coin’s luster. Uncirculated coins will have a bright, shiny luster, while circulated coins will often have a duller luster.

Circulated coins are less expensive than uncirculated coins, so if you’re on a budget, circulated coins are a better option. Circulated coins may be cheaper, but they are likely not in mint condition and have lost some value over time. 

Uncirculated coins are more valuable since they retain their original condition. While they cost more, their condition means they will likely retain or increase in value. To provide an approximate value for a coin, it’s essential to consult reliable coin pricing guides, reference books, or consult with reputable coin dealers. Source

Uncovering the Hidden Value of Precious Metal Dental Scrap

 

Have you ever wondered about dental restoration materials like crowns, bridges, or implants? You may be surprised to learn that these materials are not just waste but valuable sources of precious metals that can be recycled and refined.

The Inner Workings of Precious Metal Dental Scrap

Precious metal dental scrap is any material left over from old dental restorations that contain gold, silver, platinum, or palladium. These metals are used in dentistry because they are durable, corrosion-resistant, and biocompatible. However, they are also very expensive and scarce, which makes them attractive to investors and refiners. Precious metal dental scrap has value because it can be melted down and purified to recover the precious metals inside. These metals can be used for various purposes, such as making new jewelry, coins, bars, or industrial products. Recycling dental scrap can help reduce the demand for mining new metals, which has environmental and social impacts.

Precious Metal Dental Scrap Under a Microscope

Dental scrap can vary in size, shape, color, and quality depending on the type of restoration and the amount of precious metals present. Some dental scrap may look like pure gold or silver, while others may look like white metal or ceramic. Other dental scraps may have other metals or materials mixed in with the precious metals, such as base metals (e.g., copper or nickel), porcelain, resin, or amalgam. The amount of precious metals in dental scrap depends on several factors, such as the age of the restoration, the manufacturer of the material, the preference of the dentist or patient, and the cost of the metal at the time of fabrication. Generally, older restorations tend to have higher percentages of precious metals than newer ones, as they were made when the metals were cheaper and more available. However, this is not always the case. The only way to determine the exact amount of precious metals in dental scrap is to have it tested by a professional refiner who can use advanced equipment and techniques to analyze its composition and purity.

Value of Precious Metal Dental Scrap

Precious metal dental scraps are valuable because they can be melted down and purified to recover the precious metals inside. These metals can be used for various purposes, such as making new jewelry, coins, bars, or industrial products.

The value of dental scrap depends on factors such as:

• The quantity of dental scrap
• The quality of dental scrap
• The current market prices of gold, silver, platinum, and palladium
• The fees and charges of the buyer

Precious metal dental scrap is a valuable source of income that many people overlook or ignore. By selling your dental scrap to a reputable buyer who can offer you a fair price based on the current market value of precious metals, you can earn extra money and help protect the environment by recycling precious metals instead of discarding them. Source

Do Gold Chains Hold Value?

 

Gold chains have long been a symbol of wealth, elegance, and timeless style. But beyond their aesthetic appeal, do gold chains hold value? 

What Are Karats?

The purity of gold is measured in karats, which indicates the proportion of gold in the alloy out of 24 parts. Pure gold is 24 karats, meaning it is 100% gold. However, pure gold is too soft for most jewelry purposes, so it is often alloyed with other metals to increase its durability.

Common Karat Values

• 24K: Pure gold, rarely used for chains due to softness.
• 22K: Contains 91.6% gold, has a rich color but is still quite soft.
• 18K: Contains 75% gold, a good balance of purity and durability.
• 14K: Contains 58.3% gold, popular for its durability and affordability.
• 10K: Contains 41.7% gold, more durable but less pure.

The value of a gold chain increases with the karat value, as higher karats mean a higher proportion of gold.

Factors Affecting the Value of Gold Chains;

Gold Market Price

The market price of gold fluctuates based on supply and demand, geopolitical stability, and economic factors. The current price of gold is a significant determinant of the value of your gold chain.

Weight and Length

Gold chains are typically sold by weight. Heavier chains contain more gold, increasing their value. The length of the chain also contributes to the overall weight, with longer chains generally being more valuable.

Design and Craftsmanship

Intricate designs and high-quality craftsmanship can significantly enhance the value of a gold chain. Chains with unique patterns or those that require skilled labor to produce tend to be more valuable.

Brand and Provenance

Chains from reputable jewelers or those with a known history can hold more value. Provenance, or the chain’s history of ownership, can also affect its value, especially if it has belonged to someone famous or notable.

Condition

The condition of the gold chain is crucial. Chains that are well-maintained and show minimal signs of wear are more valuable. Regular cleaning and proper storage can help maintain the chain’s condition.

Types of Gold Chains;

Solid Gold Chains

Solid gold chains are made entirely of gold alloy. These chains hold significant value due to their high gold content and durability. They are an excellent investment, maintaining value over time.

Hollow Gold Chains

Hollow gold chains look like solid gold chains but contain less gold. While they are lighter and more affordable, they are also less durable and hold less value compared to solid gold chains.

Gold-Plated Chains

Gold-plated chains have a thin layer of gold over a base metal. These chains are much less expensive and hold minimal value compared to solid or hollow gold chains. The gold layer can wear off over time, further reducing their value.

Gold chains hold significant value due to their gold content, design, and craftsmanship. By understanding the factors that affect their value and ensuring proper care and maintenance, you can make a sound investment in gold jewelry. Source

How to Tell if a Gemstone is Real?

 

Gemstones have long been prized for their beauty, rarity, and brilliance. However, with advancements in technology and synthetic alternatives flooding the market, identifying real gemstones has become increasingly difficult. Whether you’re purchasing an engagement ring, investing in a high-end jewelry piece, or evaluating a gemstone in your collection, knowing how to differentiate genuine stones from imitations is crucial.

Common Fake Gemstones & How to Identify Them

Many imitation gemstones are designed to look indistinguishable from real ones, but they lack the natural properties that give authentic gems their value and unique beauty. Below are some of the most commonly faked gemstones and how to tell them apart from the real deal;

1. Diamonds vs. Cubic Zirconia & Moissanite

Diamonds are the most sought-after gemstones, making them a frequent target for imitation. The two most common substitutes are cubic zirconia (CZ) and moissanite.

• Cubic Zirconia – A synthetic material with a similar sparkle but lacks the hardness and fire of a real diamond. It appears “too perfect” and has a lower refractive index.
• Moissanite – A lab-created gemstone that looks extremely close to a diamond but exhibits more fire (rainbow-like reflections).

How to Tell if a Diamond is Real

1. Use the fog test – Breathe on the gemstone. Real diamonds disperse heat immediately, while fakes fog up for a few seconds.
2. Look under a jeweler’s loupe – Real diamonds have natural inclusions, while cubic zirconia is flawless.
3. Use a diamond tester – This device measures thermal conductivity; diamonds conduct heat better than imitations.

2. Emeralds vs. Glass & Synthetic Emeralds

Emeralds are known for their deep green color and natural inclusions. However, glass-based imitations and lab-created emeralds attempt to replicate their beauty.

• Glass Imitations – These lack inclusions, have an overly smooth surface, and do not exhibit the same light dispersion as natural emeralds.
• Synthetic Emeralds – Chemically identical to natural emeralds but are grown in a lab and lack the rarity of a mined gemstone.

How to Spot a Fake Emerald

1. Hold the stone up to light – If it appears overly clear or lacks depth, it may be glass.
2. Check for bubbles – Air bubbles inside the stone indicate it is glass.
3. Examine color variations – A real emerald will have subtle color variations and natural inclusions.

3. Sapphires & Rubies vs. Lab-Created & Treated Stones

Sapphires and rubies belong to the corundum family and are highly prized for their intense colors. However, many on the market are heat-treated, dyed, or entirely synthetic.

• Lab-Created Sapphires & Rubies – These have the same chemical structure as natural gems but are manufactured in a lab, making them far less valuable.
• Glass-Filled Rubies – Low-quality rubies are sometimes treated with glass to fill cracks and improve clarity.

How to Identify a Fake Sapphire or Ruby

1. Use a magnification loupe – Natural sapphires and rubies contain inclusions, while synthetics appear too perfect.
2. Shine a UV light – Real sapphires and rubies exhibit fluorescence; fake ones may not.
3. Check for bubbles – As with emeralds, air bubbles can indicate a glass-filled or synthetic stone.

4. Pearls vs. Fake or Cultured Pearls

Natural pearls are extremely rare and valuable, leading to the production of cultured pearls, shell pearls, and plastic imitations.

• Natural Pearls – Formed organically within mollusks, each pearl has unique texture and iridescence.
• Cultured Pearls – Grown with human intervention in oysters, but still considered real pearls.
• Imitation Pearls – Made of plastic or coated glass, lacking the depth and warmth of real pearls.

How to Identify Real Pearls

1. Perform the tooth test – Gently rub the pearl against your teeth. Real pearls feel gritty, while fake ones are smooth.
2. Check the temperature – Genuine pearls feel cool to the touch, whereas imitations warm up quickly.
3. Observe the luster – Real pearls have a deep, radiant glow, while fakes often appear flat or dull.

5. Opals vs. Synthetic or Imitation Opals

Opals are beloved for their mesmerizing play of color, but fake versions made from resin or glass lack the same depth.

• Synthetic Opals – These are lab-grown and exhibit uniform color patterns.
• Imitation Opals – Made from glass or plastic, lacking natural opal’s signature fire.

How to Spot a Fake Opal

1. Hold it under light – Real opals display color play from all angles, while fakes often have a single color pattern.
2. Look for layering – Some synthetic opals have a clear resin top layer, making them appear unnatural.

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