When Were Dimes and Quarters Made Of Silver?

What Dimes Are Made of Silver?

The main types of dime that were made of silver were the Barber dimes, Mercury dimes, and Roosevelt dimes.

The Barber dime was minted from 1892-1916. Created by Chief Engraver of the U.S. Mint, Charles Barber. The design features Lady Liberty’s profile on the obverse, and the reverse shows a wreath and the denomination “one dime”.

The Mercury dime was minted from 1916-1945. This dime was designed by Adolph Weinman, and is actually a representation of Liberty wearing a winged cap, though the similarity to the Roman god Mercury was enough to nickname it “the Mercury dime”.

And the Roosevelt dime was first minted in 1946. The Roosevelt dime was designed by John R. Sinnock to honor President Franklin D. Roosevelt, in part for his work in helping to found the National Foundation for Infantile Paralysis (later renamed the March of Dimes), which raised money to aid in polio research and victims of the disease.

What Quarters Are Made of Silver?

 All quarters before 1965 were made of silver, so if you’ve got a quarter dated before then, it’s a safe bet to say it’s a silver quarter.

There were also some Bicentennial quarters made with silver (but not all), the Bicentennial quarters that are made of silver are the ones with an S mintmark (struck at the San Francisco Mint). These quarters were made with 40% silver

There are also silver Proof quarters that are made with 90% silver, but generally speaking these are quarters you would purchase in a set, and you’re unlikely to find them in circulation anywhere as they’re worth more than their face-value.

When Did They Stop Making Silver Coins?

Production of silver coins ended in the year 1965, when the mint switched the composition of quarters, dimes, and half dollars to a copper-nickel alloy, which is still used in coins to this day.

Collectors aren't a big fan of the new compositions but that doesn't mean there aren't still valuable or rare coins being produced today!

Are Silver Dimes and Quarters Valuable?

While they do inherently hold more value than modern coinage, the value of silver dimes and quarters isn’t always much. You can probably get close to the intrinsic value of the silver for a silver quarter or dime, though there are some coins that are worth more because of scarcity, rarity, age, and other numismatic values. Currently (at the time of publishing) the spot price of silver is at about 24.06, if you multiply that by the silver weight of a dime, which is 0.07234 troy ounce, you’ll get the melt value of your dime, which in this case would be $1.74. If you had a good size collection of silver dimes, that would be a good chunk of change!

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Top 10 Rare Error Coins

Among the many error coins, some stand out for their rarity and the stories behind their creation. Here are ten of the most valuable:

• 1943 Bronze Lincoln Cent: Mistakenly struck in bronze instead of the usual zinc-coated steel during wartime shortages.
• 1955 Double Die Lincoln Cent: Famous for its clear doubling of inscriptions and date.
• 1972 Double Die Obverse Lincoln Cent: This coin features dramatic doubling on its obverse, making it a collector's favorite.
• 2000 Sacagawea Dollar Coin/Quarter Mule: A rare mule coin with a Sacagawea reverse and a state quarter obverse.
• 1969-S Double Die Obverse Lincoln Cent: Known for its strong and obvious doubling, this coin is highly prized.
• 1982 No Mint Mark Roosevelt Dime: These dimes accidentally left the Philadelphia mint without a mint mark.
• 1918/7-S Standing Liberty Quarter: A rare overdate error where a 1918 quarter was struck over a 1917 die.
• 1942/1 Mercury Dime: Another overdate, with a 1942 die struck over a 1941 die, available from both Philadelphia and Denver mints.
• 1937-D 3-Legged Buffalo Nickel: This error was caused by a die abrasion that removed one of the buffalo's legs.
• 1922 Plain Lincoln Cent: Due to die polishing, these cents came out missing the "D" mint mark.

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What to Do if I Inherit Gold or Other Precious Metals

In the event of the passing of a loved one, it is possible you may inherit some of their assets, which are items that can be passed down and are often of monetary value. A few of the many types of assets you may receive are bank accounts, real estate, gold and other precious metals, jewelry, and more. 

When you inherit an asset, there may be rules or guidelines you will want to adhere to, such as estate taxes you may have to pay or documents that will need to be signed to pass the asset to the next person. Inheriting assets can be a more complicated process than one may initially realize due to these added rules. When you inherit gold or other precious metals, there are different rules and guidelines depending on what you choose to do with your inheritance. Trust & Will is going to break down the guidelines based on whether or not you plan to keep the gold or other precious metals or sell them.

If You Keep Inherited Gold or Precious Metals

When you inherit gold or other precious metals, it counts toward the amount of money you can inherit and not have to pay any taxes on. Federally, this amount is quite high at $11.7 million. However, your state may have its own individual inheritance taxes that you will want to be sure to read over. 

If the amount of your gold or precious metals—along with the rest of your inheritance—is below $11.7 million, you will be able to keep them tax free. If you receive over this amount, you will have to pay taxes on the amount of gold or precious metals that exceed the limit. 

If You Sell Inherited Gold or Precious Metals 

When you choose to sell inherited gold or precious metals, you may incur a tax liability upon the sale of the item, dependent on the specific circumstances. To make this determination, the gold or precious metals will have to be professionally appraised to determine their fair market value. The IRS defines fair market value as "the price at which the property would change hands between a willing buyer and a willing seller, neither being under any compulsion to buy or to sell and both having reasonable knowledge of relevant facts. The fair market value of a particular item of property includible in the decedent's gross estate is not to be determined by a forced sale price. Nor is the fair market value of an item of property to be determined by the sale price of the item in a market other than that in which such item is most commonly sold to the public, taking into account the location of the item wherever appropriate." (Regulation §20.2031-1).

The appraisal process will occur twice to evaluate their worth, as it is constantly fluctuating. First, they will be appraised based on their worth on the day the person you inherited them from passed away. The second appraisal should take place on the day you choose to sell the assets. When you choose to sell, you will not be taxed on the amount that the gold or precious metals were worth when they were first appraised. However, at the time that you choose to sell the gold or precious metals, they may end up being worth more than when you originally inherited them. In this case, you will be liable to pay taxes on the additional amount of money you may make from selling them. This is known as capital gains.

According to the IRS, gold and precious metals are considered collectibles and can be taxed at a maximum of 28% when they are sold. Therefore, you will pay capital gains taxes up to 28% on any additional money you make on the sale of gold or precious metals. You will be responsible for reporting this to the IRS when you pay your taxes at the end of the year, as the taxes will not immediately be taken out upon selling them. However, if you do not make any additional money on the sale of your inherited gold or precious metals, you will not be required to pay any additional estate taxes. 

Importance of Estate Planning for Gold or Other Precious Metals

Estate planning will be beneficial when you are passing down inherited gold or other precious metals because, unlike houses and cars, there are no deeds required to register ownership of gold or precious metals. At the same time, their worth is not within a bank account, making gold and precious metals their own worth separate from your cash. The only direct evidence you may have that you own gold or precious metals is through tax returns. However, the amount of gold or precious metals you own may change throughout the year after you submit your taxes. Therefore, documenting within your Estate Plan, the exact value of the assets you are passing down - and where it is located, can be very beneficial to the person managing your estate after you pass. 

Including this information in your Estate Plan also gives you the opportunity to have full control over who you want to inherit your gold or other precious metals. If you do not create an Estate Plan and designate who you want to inherit your gold or precious metals, it is possible they may end up in the hands of someone you may not have wanted it to go to. 

Without an Estate Plan explaining who you want to inherit your assets—including gold and other precious metals—your family and loved ones will be put through unnecessary added stress at a time when they should be making room to grieve your loss. They will instead have to spend time and money determining who is meant to inherit your assets. This means hiring an attorney to navigate the time-consuming and complicated probate process. This can lead to frustration and unnecessary disputes among family members that could have been easily avoided by having an Estate Plan. Source

Handling Your Collection

Hold a coin by its edges between your thumb and forefinger over a soft towel or surface. Wear soft cotton gloves to protect the coin’s surface from fingerprints and the natural oils on your skin, which can be corrosive.

While you may be tempted to polish your coins to make them look shiny and new, proceed with caution. Polishing and/or cleaning coins can reduce their value. 

Older coins that show deep age coloration are more desirable than coins whose surfaces have been stripped away by improper polishing or cleaning. If you do polish a coin to remove dirt, use mild soap and water.  Once you’ve washed the coin, pat it dry with a soft towel. Brushing or rubbing can scratch a coin’s delicate surface. And now that you know how to properly care for and store your collection, remember the most important part of coin collecting . . . Have fun!

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Coin Collecting: History, Hobby, and Profit

 

Ian Russell, President of Great Collections, defines the multiple facets of the coin industry and provides visual examples of highly valuable coins along with a rationale for their valuation.

Coin Storage Tips | How and Where to Keep Your Collection Safe

 

Keep your coin collection safe and secure with these expert tips for storing coins and explore the best coin storage options for collectors. If you're serious about protecting your investment, former ANA Education Director Rod Gillis covers options for collectors from affordable coin tubes and cardboard flips to high-end plastic holders and graded cases.

Rod breaks down the pros and cons of various coin storage methods, discussing how to protect your collection from damage while keeping it organized. Whether you're looking for economical solutions or premium options, you'll learn how to store your coins with confidence.

In addition to physical storage, Rod offers essential advice on where to store your collection—whether it's at home or in a secure safety deposit box. He shares valuable security tips, including choosing discreet hiding spots, investing in flame-retardant safes, and safeguarding high-value coins in bank vaults.

Mint Marks

Mint marks are letters that identify where a coin was made. In the past, they held the maker responsible for the quality of a coin. When the U.S. used precious metals such as gold and silver to make circulating coins, a commission evaluated the composition and quality of coins from each of the Mint facilities. These evaluations ensured that each facility produced coins to the correct specifications. Philadelphia was the only branch in operation in the Mint’s earliest years, so identifying the source of a coin was not necessary. When the Mint opened branches in Charlotte, Dahlonega, and New Orleans in 1838, mint marks made their first appearance on U.S. coins.

However, the practice of not identifying Philadelphia’s coins continued even after the first branches were established. This changed in 1942. When nickel was removed from five-cent coins during World War II, the “P” mint mark first appeared on coins produced in Philadelphia. The mark’s position also moved from the right of Monticello to above the dome to indicate the new metal composition.

After the war, when use of the regular alloy resumed, mint marks returned to their former positions, and the Mint no longer used Philadelphia’s “P.” The Coinage Act of 1965 eliminated mint marks to discourage collecting while the Mint worked to meet the country’s coinage needs. So, no mint marks appeared on circulating coins from 1965 to 1967. When mint marks returned in 1968, they were placed on the obverse, after having previously been on the reverse of coins. In 1979, the Susan B. Anthony Dollar was introduced. Once again, the “P” mint mark appeared. The following year, the “P” appeared on all of the denominations except the cent, which still holds true today.

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The Story Behind the 1804 Silver Dollar

Few coins inspire as much fascination — or command as much value — as the 1804 Silver Dollar, often called the “King of American Coins.” Its mystique lies not only in its beauty or rarity but in its impossible story: not a single one was actually struck in the year it bears.

Yet this coin has captivated generations of collectors, historians, and investors, selling for millions of dollars whenever one appears at auction. The 1804 Silver Dollar is not just a coin — it is a legend, a symbol of prestige and the allure of the unknown. The tale begins in the early 19th century, during a time when America’s young Mint was still finding its rhythm. Although the 1804 date appears on these coins, no silver dollars were struck that year. The last true circulation dollars of the early “Bust” design were actually coined in 1803. So why do 1804-dated dollars exist? The answer lies three decades later, in 1834, when the U.S. Mint prepared special proof coin sets as diplomatic gifts for foreign leaders. Among the coins included were silver dollars — but by that time, the Mint had not produced any for over 25 years.

Mint officials decided to use the most recent legal date for the denomination — 1804 — rather than strike new coins with a current date. Thus, the first 1804 Silver Dollars were born — not in 1804, but around 1834–1835, specially made for presentation purposes.

Among the recipients were the King of Siam (modern-day Thailand) and the Sultan of Muscat and Oman, who received complete proof sets including these now-legendary dollars.

The “Classes” of the 1804 Silver Dollar

Collectors today recognize three distinct classes of 1804 Silver Dollars, each with its own remarkable story:

• Class I (Originals – 1834–1835): Struck for the diplomatic presentation sets, featuring plain edges. Only eight are known to exist, including the famed King of Siam specimen.
• Class II (First Restrikes – circa 1858): Produced secretly at the Mint for collectors, these have lettered edges. Only one example is known.
• Class III (Second Restrikes – 1850s–1860s): Also made clandestinely, likely from the same dies, with lettered edges added later. Around six are known today.

In total, only about fifteen genuine 1804 Silver Dollars are known to exist across all classes — each with a documented history and pedigree that makes them as much artifact as currency.

The Rise of a Legend

The 1804 Silver Dollar’s fame grew rapidly in the late 19th century, when stories of its rarity spread among America’s early numismatists. By the early 1900s, it was already referred to as the “King of American Coins.”

In 1999, the King of Siam specimen resurfaced after decades in private hands and later sold for over $4 million. In 2021, another example — the Dexter specimen, named for its tiny “D” counterstamp hidden in the reverse cloud — fetched more than $7 million at auction.

Its rarity, elegance, and mysterious origins continue to drive fascination. For collectors, owning an 1804 Silver Dollar is the ultimate symbol of status — a once-in-a-lifetime acquisition that transcends numismatics.

Why Collectors Revere the 1804 Silver Dollar

The 1804 Silver Dollar stands at the intersection of myth and history — part official Mint record, part mystery. Collectors and historians treasure it for many reasons:Precious Metals

• Historical Intrigue: A coin dated 1804 but minted 30 years later — a true anomaly in U.S. Mint history.
• Rarity: With fewer than 15 known, it ranks among the rarest and most valuable coins in the world.
• Craftsmanship: Each piece is a proof strike of remarkable detail and mirror finish, representing the Mint’s finest artistry of its time.
• Cultural Symbolism: Once given to kings and sultans, the 1804 Silver Dollar has always carried an air of diplomacy and prestige.
• Investment Value: With auction prices in the multi-million-dollar range, it remains a cornerstone of elite numismatic portfolios.

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The Story Behind the Walking Liberty Half Dollar

The Walking Liberty Half Dollar, minted from 1916 to 1947, is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful coins ever produced by the U.S. Mint. Designed during an era of resilience and national pride, it reflects America’s enduring values of freedom, optimism, and unity. For veterans and seasoned collectors, this coin embodies the patriotic spirit of a nation standing tall through challenge and change. For new collectors, it offers an inspiring and affordable entry point — a chance to hold a piece of American history in silver.

By 1916, the United States was ready to replace the aging Barber coinage with something more expressive of modern America. The Treasury turned to Adolph A. Weinman, the sculptor who had recently designed the elegant Mercury Dime. His Walking Liberty design captured the very essence of American strength and progress. On the obverse, Lady Liberty strides toward the rising sun, draped in the American flag and carrying laurel and oak branches — symbols of peace and victory. On the reverse, a proud bald eagle stands upon a mountain crag, wings partially raised, poised for flight. The imagery was unmistakable: a young nation, grounded in liberty, reaching for greatness.

The Walking Liberty Half Dollar circulated through the heart of the 20th century:

• World War I (1916–1918): The design represented a hopeful and confident America entering the world stage.
• The Great Depression (1929–1939): It became the coin of daily survival, a silver reminder of resilience.
• World War II (1939–1945): It was the soldier’s keepsake and the homefront’s pocket change — a true coin of the people.

When production ended in 1947, the coin was succeeded by the Franklin Half Dollar, but the Walking Liberty’s design had already become a national icon.

Key Dates and Rarities Collectors Pursue

Like many early 20th-century silver coins, the Walking Liberty Half Dollar has its share of rarities that collectors prize:

• 1916 and 1917 (Early Issues): Particularly those bearing Denver (D) and San Francisco (S) mint marks.
• 1921 Series (Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco): Exceptionally low mintages across all three mints make these the crown jewels of the series.
• 1938-D Half Dollar: With fewer than 500,000 struck, this later-date rarity is a must-have for serious collectors.
• High-Grade 1940s Issues: These WWII-era coins are readily available but command strong premiums in mint-state grades showing full detail.

Collectors also seek well-struck examples, where the lines of Liberty’s gown and the eagle’s feathers appear crisp — a sign of exceptional quality and care at the Mint.

Why Collect Walking Liberty Half Dollars?

This series attracts collectors for both its beauty and its meaning:

• Patriotic Symbolism: Liberty, the flag, and the eagle — all timeless emblems of America.
• Historical Significance: A coin that circulated during some of the most defining decades in our nation’s story.
• Accessibility: Common-date circulated coins are affordable for beginners.
• Investment Appeal: Key dates and high-grade examples remain strong performers in the numismatic market.

For many collectors — especially veterans and patriotic investors — the Walking Liberty Half Dollar serves as a symbol of America’s courage and perseverance.

Tips for Building a Collection

The beauty of collecting Walking Liberty Half Dollars is that you can tailor the journey to your own pace and budget:

• Start with late-date coins (1940–1947): Common, affordable, and great for building experience.
• Add earlier years gradually: Especially the 1921 and 1938-D issues, which are highly prized.
• Look for strong strikes: Full gown lines on Liberty and feather detail on the eagle are hallmarks of quality.
• Preserve carefully: Use archival-quality holders to protect against silver toning or tarnish.
• Set collecting goals: Try a “short set” (1941–1947) before working backward to earlier, rarer coins.

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The 10 Rules of Successful Coin Collecting

10 Rules of Successful Coin Collecting according to The American Numismatic Association;

 I. Education 

The most successful coin collectors take time to learn as much as they can about numismatics. They not only study coins but the dynamics of the market as well. To learn about coins, I strongly suggest that you buy and read as many books as possible. You can supplement these books with specific catalogs that relate to your chosen field of specialization. A serious collector might even go as far as creating a database of prices that relate to his specialty. Other suggestions for new collectors include subscribing to periodicals such as Coin World and Numismatic News. You should join the American Numismatic Association and use their library (they will send books by mail to members). Become friendly with other collectors and communicate with them by phone or e-mail. And don’t be afraid to ask questions.

 II. Specialization 

It is too hard to begin a coin collection without having goals and boundaries. I have always been a strong believer that it is better to view numismatics with a “micro” perspective as opposed to a “macro” perspective. As an example, if you start by collecting Charlotte gold coinage, your “world of focus” becomes 52 specific issues. It is realistic to assume that an intelligent individual who is willing to commit time to this area of study could become relatively knowledgeable within a year or two. To become similarly knowledgeable in a larger field of study (such as all branch mint US gold coins produced between 1838 and 1907) requires many more years. Becoming a well-versed specialist will allow you to level the playing field between you and dealers and it should enable you to make better purchases.

III. Patience 

We live in an era of immediate gratification. New collectors often have the urge to jump in very quickly and complete their sets as fast as they can. The best coin collections are built over the course of many years. Sometimes, it is possible to purchase a number of great coins in a very short period of time. But most times, the opportunities to purchase great coins are few and far between. The new collector should avoid the temptation to buy the “wrong coin” just because he needs it for his set and he does not want to wait. Impetuous decisions are invariably incorrect and usually prove costly over the course of time. 

IV. Connections 

It amazes me how many serious collectors get their “meatiest” information on topics such as pricing, market conditions and future trends from such third-hand sources as newsletters, coin magazines and coin brokers. This information is almost always well out of date and totally biased. (Remember that most newsletters which recommend specific coins are written by dealers who have taken a position in what they are touting). The only way to get real information about the coin market is from a dealer or collector who regularly attends shows and auctions. This discounts most coin brokers/salesmen as they get diluted information from their superiors and then pass on these half-baked “truths” to the masses. I personally view it as my duty to pass on accurate information to good clients. Conversely, I will not willing pass this information onto “tire kickers.” The best way to get good information is to establish a good working relationship with a well-connected, reliable dealer. 

V. Thinking Like a Collector 

Anyone who approaches numismatics with a dispassionate attitude is a virtual certainty to lose money. Conversely, most pure collectors make money; often times in spite of themselves. This is because they buy coins for the right reason: they love them. They what interests them and they carefully research their purchases. They know for example, that a coin similar to one they just purchased sold for 10% more at a major auction. They know that they are not buying overhyped coins at the height of a promotional period. They are not buying coins just because a voice at the other end of the phone told them to and they are not buying them because this person told them their new coins would “increase in value 50-75% over the next three years.” Remember this rule because it may be the most important one of the ten listed here: learn to think and act like a true collector and you will have more fun now and have a better chance to expect a reasonable profit on your purchases over the course of time. 

VI. Connoisseurship 

I define connoisseurship as the ability to discern true quality in a specific field. In numismatics, the connoisseur is able to determine which coins have the most aesthetic eye appeal and which, literally, stand apart from the “typical” piece. A numismatic connoisseur, for instance, is able to appreciate a truly original gold coin with rich, “crusty” coloration. He is able to innately sense that 150 year old coins do not have to be big and bright in order to be desirable. Connoisseurship is a natural ability. You either are able to naturally determine the “best” or you are not. If you are not a born connoisseur (and very few people are) then you should find a dealer who has this ability to assist you with your purchases. I would estimate that less than 5% of all coin collections are “connoisseur quality” and those that are typically the ones that show the greatest financial appreciation over the course of time.

VII. Learning to Grade 

I have seen people spend millions of dollars on rare coins without having the slightest idea how to grade. They put their complete trust in dealers and in third-party grading. Frankly, this attitude leaves me baffled. If I do not feel very comfortable grading a specific type of coin, I do not buy it. As an example, I think Indian Head half eagles are extremely hard to grade. To be totally honest, I can’t grade the damn things. My solution? I don’t buy them. By the same token, I feel that I am a world-class grader of Liberty Head half eagles. So I buy a lot of them. There are some simple rules when it comes to grading. First–and foremost–you need to view as many coins as possible. I would recommend that you attend shows and auctions and carefully look at coins. Secondly, I would take one of the grading classes offered by the American Numismatic Association at their annual Summer Seminars. Thirdly, I would make the decision to specialize, so that you have fewer types of coins to learn to grade. Fourthly, I would try to learn grading tips from the dealer(s) that I buy the majority of my coins from. Finally, I would always remember that while third-party grading is a great safety net for the beginner, there is nothing like your own knowledge. 

VIII. Thinking Long Term 

Coins are a terrible short-term investment. Even if you buy coins at a fair “retail” mark-up, you are still paying at least 10-20% over typical wholesale prices. This means that any coins that you purchase have to go up at least 10-20% for you to break even. When coins were heavily touted as investments in the 1980’s, the common logic was that you needed to hold at least three to five years. I would suggest that you should plan to hold your coins at least ten years and preferably more. The greatest collections (Eliasberg, Pittman, Norweb, etc.) were built over the course of fifty+ years.

IX. Quality Not Quantity 

Let’s say that you have a coin budget of $20,000 per year. I would suggest that you purchase four or five really nice $4000-$5000 coins each year than twenty $1000 pieces. The coin market of the future will be even more predicated on quality than it already is. High quality coins will become harder to find and, consequently, more expensive. The decision to purchase the best coins you can afford will prove to be very intelligent over the course of time. A few years ago, another dealer had an advertising campaign that basically said that your entire collection should be able to fit into a PCGS shipping box (i.e., it would be twenty coins). While this never really caught on, I think his idea actually has some merit. If you have decided to be more of a “generalist” buyer than a “specialist,” I like the concept of having a small collection of great coins instead of a large collection of nondescript coins.

X. Buying the Best You Can

Understand if you are new to coin collecting and you know next to nothing about coins and the coin market, you have no business purchasing $10,000+ items. I would strongly suggest that you start small and take at least three to six months to study the market. Once you feel more comfortable, you can take a bigger plunge into the coin market.

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