How to Collect Gold Scrap

Collecting gold scrap can be a fun way to make some extra money. For this modern-day treasure hunt, your best bet is to look for gold jewelry in flea markets and thrift shops. If you’re down for a chemistry experiment, you can also mine for gold in your old computers and other electronics. Once you’ve got a collection going, send it along to a buyer online or locally to cash in on your shiny finds!

1.) Look for flea markets or shops with costume jewelry. This is the easiest way to collect scrap gold. Google flea markets and thrift shops near you. It’s best to look for larger flea markets with lots of vendors, as these events will concentrate the most potential gold in one spot. Some flea markets might operate more like festivals and will only be open for business once per year.

2.) Visit the market in the morning. The earlier you get to the market or shop, the better. Aim to arrive 15 minutes before it opens so you can be one of the first visitors to take advantage of cool finds and great deals. Go for the costume jewelry displays first, then move on to the more expensive collections.

It’s best to schedule your gold hunt on a day when you don’t have anything else going on. Pick a day off from work or a free Saturday so you can spend hours looking for your treasures.

3.) Find a pocket-sized magnet to bring along. You can purchase a magnet online or at a local hardware store. Look for one that’s about the size of a domino. You can use this tool to test if jewelry is gold or just another metal that’s been plated with gold.

The magnet won’t stick to real gold. Test clasps and other parts of jewelry separately. Sometimes a clasp will be plated, but the majority of the piece will be real gold.

4.) Search for markings showing the gold content of the piece. Look for labels showing what type of gold the jewelry is. In the United States, most jewelry will be stamped as 10K, 14K, 18K, or 24K. The “K” stands for a karat (sometimes spelled carat), a measurement that indicates the amount of gold in an item. A 24K piece is pure gold.

For jewelry made outside of the United States, you may just see numbers instead of karat markings. 10K translates to 417, 14K is 585, 18K is 750, and 24K is 999.

5.) Avoid jewelry with manufacturing markings. Some jewelry will be labeled with an assortment of letters. These markings show that the gold is plated. Stay away from the following:

• GE, which means gold electroplate. You may also see GP, which stands for gold plated.
• HGE, or heavy gold electroplate.
• GF for gold filled.
• HGP, or heavy gold plate.

It’s also a good rule of thumb not to purchase jewelry with unusual or unidentifiable markings. These are usually a good indicator that it’s not gold.

6.) Don’t spend over $10 USD per piece. The only way to make money off your gold scrap is not to spend too much collecting it! Many flea markets will allow you to buy a whole bag of mixed costume jewelry for between $2 and $10 USD. You can also choose to purchase individual pieces. And don’t forget to haggle!

Offer your vendor less than their asking price and hesitate when they give you a higher counter-offer. You could say something like: “I can give you $2 instead of $5 for that bracelet.”

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Is Junk Silver Worth Buying?

If you’re exploring ways to diversify your investment portfolio or earn extra cash, buying or selling junk silver can be an excellent option. Junk silver refers to coins valued for their silver content rather than collectible worth. They can be purchased individually or bulk as an investment asset or sold to a reputable dealer. So, is junk silver worth buying? The decision largely depends on your financial goals and the current market value of silver per troy ounce. Explore this unique investment opportunity to determine if investing in junk silver aligns with your needs and to understand its potential worth.

Silver stacking is a strategy for building wealth that involves collecting and holding physical silver in various forms. This method takes advantage of silver’s potential to appreciate in value over time and acts as a safeguard against inflation and currency devaluation. Junk silver is especially attractive for this strategy because it’s affordable and readily available.

When considering the purchase of junk silver for stacking, keep the following in mind:

Understand Junk Silver

Junk silver is the name given to a general category of silver items with little to no collector value and are only valued for their silver content. The most common junk silver items in the United States are old silver coins, sometimes called Constitutional Silver.

Despite the name, junk silver coins still contain valuable silver. The main difference from other silver assets lies in their silver purity; junk silver typically has a 90% silver content, lower than the 925 or higher rating for Sterling silver or fine silver found in jewelry or investment-grade silver.

Assess the Price

Calculate a coin’s worth by comparing its face value to its silver content. Buying junk silver at or near the spot price of silver can maximize your investment, as these coins typically carry lower premiums than newer, high-purity bullion.

Generally, junk silver coins are bought and sold using the ‘times face’ method. This calculation doesn’t require converting the silver content into troy ounces; instead, it simplifies transactions by relating the purchase price to the face value of the coins multiplied by a specific multiplier

Junk silver requires high-security storage, similar to that of other precious metal assets like bullion or jewelry, to prevent damage. Consider using a fireproof and waterproof home safe for environmental protection and theft prevention.

Store your coins in labeled containers or albums for easy access and inventory management:

• Coin tubes. These hard plastic tubes are ideal for bulk storage of coins. They can hold a stack of similar-sized coins, protecting them from dust and moisture. Make sure the tubes are of a size that fits your coins snugly to prevent them from moving around and getting scratched. 
• Coin holders. Individual coin holders, or flips, can be used for more valuable or collectible junk silver coins. These are typically made from plastic or cardboard and offer a clear window to view the coin. They protect from handling and environmental exposure. 
• Coin albums are binder-like books with plastic sheets that hold coins in individual pockets. They are great for organizing collections and allow for easy viewing and display of coins without needing to handle them.

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Reasons to Invest in Estate Jewelry

Considering estate jewelry as an investment is an excellent way to broaden your portfolio beyond typical assets. Estate jewelry’s value comes from its uniqueness, craftsmanship, and history, offering a worth based on the piece’s condition, background, and beauty. Investing in estate jewelry can be a smart choice for those seeking financial returns from collectible items or the intrinsic value of the precious metals and stones they contain.

What is Estate Jewelry?

Estate jewelry is a term used to describe pieces that have been previously owned, distinguishing them from new or contemporary items. The label “estate” originally implied that the jewelry came from the estate of a deceased person but now broadly refers to any pre-owned jewelry, regardless of its origin.

This category can include various styles, from vintage pieces dating back a few decades to antique items over a hundred years old. Typically, you can find the following types of estate jewelry that may hold value for their rarity, lineage, materials, or other characteristics:

• Antique brooches made of gold or silver and set with diamonds or other precious gemstones 
• Art Deco-era engagement rings and wedding bands set with a diamond, ruby, emerald, or sapphire 
• Retro and post-war gold or silver bracelets, often featuring intricate designs and multiple gemstones 
• Classic jewelry timepieces, such as designer watches made using precious metals and gemstones

Is Estate Jewelry a Good Investment? The Top Reasons to Buy Estate Pieces

Investing in estate jewelry, though not a conventional asset offers unique advantages to your portfolio and overall wealth. Here are key reasons why adding these unique pieces to your asset collection can be beneficial:

Value Appreciation Potential

Investing in estate jewelry offers the potential for value appreciation, which means its worth increases with time. Unlike new jewelry, which can depreciate once purchased, estate pieces often increase in value. This is especially true for jewelry from coveted periods or famous manufacturers.

For instance, jewelry from the Art Deco era, known for its bold, geometric designs, has seen a consistent rise in demand and price as collectors seek out its distinctive style. The value of pieces made in the 1920s and 30s rose by 72% in recent years.

Similarly, pieces by famous jewelry houses like Cartier or Tiffany & Co., once part of an estate, can increase in value due to their craftsmanship, brand legacy, and historical context.

The value of estate jewelry often appreciates due to its limited availability and increasing demand from collectors. Carefully selected pieces can enhance an investment portfolio, providing visual pleasure and monetary gains.

Raw Material Value

The intrinsic value of its materials bolsters the allure of estate jewelry’s investment. Precious metals, such as gold, silver, and platinum, and gemstones like diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, tend to maintain their value. Therefore, an estate piece might still be valuable for the sheer worth of its materials, even if its design or historical significance doesn’t add value.

Take, for instance, estate jewelry made from 18-karat gold, which holds a significant quantity of pure gold, valued independently from the design or historical context of the item. As of February 27, 2024, the market price of gold stood at about $2,029 per troy ounce. Therefore, the piece’s value could reach the thousands, depending on the gold content.

High Liquidity

The more liquid an investment asset is, the faster you can convert it into cash, with the least loss of value during the transaction. Estate jewelry made of precious metals and gemstones is generally considered highly liquid due to three factors:

• Market demand. Estate jewelry’s liquidity is influenced by current market demand for the specific type of jewelry, precious metals, or gemstones it contains. High demand can make selling quickly and at a favorable price easier. 
• Recognizability and desirability: Certain brands, historical periods, or unique designs can increase the desirability of estate jewelry, potentially making it more liquid if there’s a strong market of collectors and enthusiasts. 
• Quality and condition: The overall quality and condition of the estate jewelry also affect its liquidity. High-quality pieces in good condition will likely retain value and be easier to sell.

Potential to Become a Family Heirloom

Unlike stocks or bonds, jewelry often holds emotional or symbolic significance. It’s commonly passed down through generations, embodying a family’s heritage and bonds. This sentimental value can enhance a piece’s attractiveness to collectors, potentially boosting its investment value. Estate jewelry from particular historical periods showcases craftsmanship no longer practiced today, making these pieces irreplaceable and more desirable. This uniqueness adds to their charm and can increase their resale value.

For example, Art Deco and Art Nouveau jewelry often feature guilloché enameling, a meticulous metalworking method that creates detailed patterns on metal surfaces. Among the most renowned examples of this technique are the Fabergé eggs, celebrated for their exquisite craftsmanship and intricate designs.

Protection Against Inflation

The rarity and intrinsic value of a piece of jewelry’s precious materials can do more than just raise the value of your investments; they can also protect your wealth and provide financial stability in periods of economic trouble. During periods of economic inflation, the purchasing power of the U.S. Dollar decreases. In contrast, the value of gold, silver, precious gemstones, and other investment assets remains stable or increases. Rare and desirable assets, such as estate jewelry from specific makers or eras, typically increase in value during these periods. This makes these investments a solid strategy for safeguarding your wealth against inflation.

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The 10 Rules of Successful Coin Collecting

This list was compiled by Doug Winter with The American Numismatic Association...

1. Education 

The most successful coin collectors take time to learn as much as they can about numismatics. They not only study coins but the dynamics of the market as well. To learn about coins, I strongly suggest that you buy and read as many books as possible. You can supplement these books with specific catalogs that relate to your chosen field of specialization. A serious collector might even go as far as creating a database of prices that relate to his specialty. Other suggestions for new collectors include subscribing to periodicals such as Coin World and Numismatic News. You should join the American Numismatic Association and use their library (they will send books by mail to members). Become friendly with other collectors and communicate with them by phone or e-mail. And don’t be afraid to ask questions.

2. Specialization 

It is too hard to begin a coin collection without having goals and boundaries. I have always been a strong believer that it is better to view numismatics with a “micro” perspective as opposed to a “macro” perspective. As an example, if you start by collecting Charlotte gold coinage, your “world of focus” becomes 52 specific issues. It is realistic to assume that an intelligent individual who is willing to commit time to this area of study could become relatively knowledgeable within a year or two. To become similarly knowledgeable in a larger field of study (such as all branch mint US gold coins produced between 1838 and 1907) requires many more years. Becoming a well-versed specialist will allow you to level the playing field between you and dealers and it should enable you to make better purchases.

3. Patience 

We live in an era of immediate gratification. New collectors often have the urge to jump in very quickly and complete their sets as fast as they can. The best coin collections are built over the course of many years. Sometimes, it is possible to purchase a number of great coins in a very short period of time. But most times, the opportunities to purchase great coins are few and far between. The new collector should avoid the temptation to buy the “wrong coin” just because he needs it for his set and he does not want to wait. Impetuous decisions are invariably incorrect and usually prove costly over the course of time.

4. Connections 

It amazes me how many serious collectors get their “meatiest” information on topics such as pricing, market conditions and future trends from such third-hand sources as newsletters, coin magazines and coin brokers. This information is almost always well out of date and totally biased. (Remember that most newsletters which recommend specific coins are written by dealers who have taken a position in what they are touting). The only way to get real information about the coin market is from a dealer or collector who regularly attends shows and auctions. This discounts most coin brokers/salesmen as they get diluted information from their superiors and then pass on these half-baked “truths” to the masses. I personally view it as my duty to pass on accurate information to good clients. Conversely, I will not willing pass this information onto “tire kickers.” The best way to get good information is to establish a good working relationship with a well-connected, reliable dealer. 

5. Thinking Like a Collector 

Anyone who approaches numismatics with a dispassionate attitude is a virtual certainty to lose money. Conversely, most pure collectors make money; often times in spite of themselves. This is because they buy coins for the right reason: they love them. They what interests them and they carefully research their purchases. They know for example, that a coin similar to one they just purchased sold for 10% more at a major auction. They know that they are not buying overhyped coins at the height of a promotional period. They are not buying coins just because a voice at the other end of the phone told them to and they are not buying them because this person told them their new coins would “increase in value 50-75% over the next three years.” Remember this rule because it may be the most important one of the ten listed here: learn to think and act like a true collector and you will have more fun now and have a better chance to expect a reasonable profit on your purchases over the course of time. 

6. Connoisseurship 

I define connoisseurship as the ability to discern true quality in a specific field. In numismatics, the connoisseur is able to determine which coins have the most aesthetic eye appeal and which, literally, stand apart from the “typical” piece. A numismatic connoisseur, for instance, is able to appreciate a truly original gold coin with rich, “crusty” coloration. He is able to innately sense that 150 year old coins do not have to be big and bright in order to be desirable. Connoisseurship is a natural ability. You either are able to naturally determine the “best” or you are not. If you are not a born connoisseur (and very few people are) then you should find a dealer who has this ability to assist you with your purchases. I would estimate that less than 5% of all coin collections are “connoisseur quality” and those that are typically the ones that show the greatest financial appreciation over the course of time.

7. Learning to Grade 

I have seen people spend millions of dollars on rare coins without having the slightest idea how to grade. They put their complete trust in dealers and in third-party grading. Frankly, this attitude leaves me baffled. If I do not feel very comfortable grading a specific type of coin, I do not buy it. As an example, I think Indian Head half eagles are extremely hard to grade. To be totally honest, I can’t grade the damn things. My solution? I don’t buy them. By the same token, I feel that I am a world-class grader of Liberty Head half eagles. So I buy a lot of them. There are some simple rules when it comes to grading. First–and foremost–you need to view as many coins as possible. I would recommend that you attend shows and auctions and carefully look at coins. Secondly, I would take one of the grading classes offered by the American Numismatic Association at their annual Summer Seminars. Thirdly, I would make the decision to specialize, so that you have fewer types of coins to learn to grade. Fourthly, I would try to learn grading tips from the dealer(s) that I buy the majority of my coins from. Finally, I would always remember that while third-party grading is a great safety net for the beginner, there is nothing like your own knowledge. 

8. Thinking Long Term 

Coins are a terrible short-term investment. Even if you buy coins at a fair “retail” mark-up, you are still paying at least 10-20% over typical wholesale prices. This means that any coins that you purchase have to go up at least 10-20% for you to break even. When coins were heavily touted as investments in the 1980’s, the common logic was that you needed to hold at least three to five years. I would suggest that you should plan to hold your coins at least ten years and preferably more. The greatest collections (Eliasberg, Pittman, Norweb, etc.) were built over the course of fifty+ years.

9. Quality Not Quantity 

Let’s say that you have a coin budget of $20,000 per year. I would suggest that you purchase four or five really nice $4000-$5000 coins each year than twenty $1000 pieces. The coin market of the future will be even more predicated on quality than it already is. High quality coins will become harder to find and, consequently, more expensive. The decision to purchase the best coins you can afford will prove to be very intelligent over the course of time. A few years ago, another dealer had an advertising campaign that basically said that your entire collection should be able to fit into a PCGS shipping box (i.e., it would be twenty coins). While this never really caught on, I think his idea actually has some merit. If you have decided to be more of a “generalist” buyer than a “specialist,” I like the concept of having a small collection of great coins instead of a large collection of nondescript coins.

10. Buying the Best You Can

Understand if you are new to coin collecting and you know next to nothing about coins and the coin market, you have no business purchasing $10,000+ items. I would strongly suggest that you start small and take at least three to six months to study the market. Once you feel more comfortable, you can take a bigger plunge into the coin market.

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Coin Flip

Next time you flip a coin, you might want to pick the side that's already facing up. A recent University of Amsterdam study says that flipped coins have what's called a same-side bias. The study flipped coins in 46 different currencies 350,000 times and registered that 51% of the time the coins landed on the side they started on. The research could upend ideas about the fairness of flipping a coin. I guess you could always draw straws.

So next time you go to flip a coin maybe think again which side you choose!

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Understanding Coin Grading Basics

An important factor in determining the value of any coin is the condition it’s in. Has it seen much circulation? Is it well-struck? This is something that is quantified in a “grade.”

Coins are graded on a scale of 1-70, starting with 1 on the lowest end of the spectrum, and 70 representing the most pristine example possible. There are multiple grading companies that will evaluate your coins and encapsulate them in a sealed plastic holder with the assigned grade printed on a label. However, even if you’re not concerned with learning to grade coins yourself, it’s important to be familiar with this basic scale, to understand how numismatists ascertain value.

The scale we use today was created by Dr. William Sheldon in 1949 to determine accurate pricing for large cents based on their overall condition or state of preservation; the better the coin, the higher the price. Using this method, a Good 4 would be worth $4, a Fine 12 would be worth $12, and so on - and who wouldn’t be thrilled to spend just $65 for a beautiful Gem BU red large cent today?! Each number in the scale is accompanied by a shorthand term and there are detailed explanations available for each degree. For example, if you have a Very Fine 35, it would be referred to as a VF-35, or just a “35” by some. It’s also important to note that some numbers aren’t used. You’ll encounter pieces in VF-30 and VF-35, but never VF-32 - at least not yet. This could change however, based on future conditions in the numismatic marketplace. Some have argued that the grade AU-59 may come about some day if deemed necessary by enough collectors and dealers.

Poor 1, Fair 2, and Almost Good 3

The lower the number, the more heavily worn the coin. On a Poor 1 (PO-1) coin, the type and date are discernible, but not much else. You’ll typically be able to see outlines of major devices, but no detail and little to no lettering. This improves gradually through Fair 2 (FA-2) and Almost Good 3 (AG-3). Interestingly, a PO-1 is typically the most valuable of these three; many people put together “lowball sets,” where the goal is to have the lowest grade coins possible, resulting in more competition for PO-1 than FA-2 or AG-3. Many collectors enjoy coins of this nature as there is a lot of history associated with them, as opposed to some uncirculated specimens that only saw unexciting movement from one safe to another, trapped in a canvas bag for 150 years. Just imagine the stories some of these well-worn coins could tell us!

Good 4, 6, and Very Good 8, 10

The lowest grade where the design really starts to become visible is Good 4 (G-4). Most of the lettering is visible, though not all, or it may be very hard to make out. Coins from G-4 through Very Good 10 (VG-10) show quite a range in terms of how much detail is visible, but all are heavily circulated and clearly spent a lot of time in use.

Fine 12, 15, and Very Fine 20, 25, 30, 35

Starting at Fine 12 (F-12), the lettering and digits should all be clear and crisp. All the way up through Very Fine 35 (VF-35), circulation wear is still easily visible on high points with the naked eye. This wear will be visible down to recessed areas at F-12, but only noticeable on high points by VF-35.

Extremely Fine 40 and 45

Extremely Fine 40 (EF-40 or XF-40) is the lowest grade where you might not notice any circulation wear at a glance. However, under close inspection, EF-40 and EF-45 will both display minor wear on the high points, and with a bit of practice, it becomes easy to spot. Traces of original mint luster may remain in areas protected by design elements.

Almost Uncirculated 50, 53, 55, and 58

Almost Uncirculated (AU) coins are generally desirable and are commonly quite attractive. These pieces will display very little wear, usually discernible only by minor softness or color difference on the highest points of the design. They should show some original mint luster, and can be easy to mistake for uncirculated specimens to the untrained eye. In general, lower-end AU coins (ex. AU-50) will have low eye appeal, with a lot of bag marks, low luster, etc. AU-58 coins, however, are typically very well struck and appealing pieces that have almost unnoticeable wear. AU-58 pieces commonly come with a bit of a premium thanks to collectors working on “everyman sets,” which are entirely comprised of coins in AU-58 or below. Again, many collectors enjoy coins that saw some use as actual money but still show a great deal of originality, instead of pieces that just languished in vaults.

Mint State 60-70; No numbers are skipped between 60 and 70, and all of them are considered Mint State (MS). This is largely due to the intense trading of some uncirculated coins, which tend to be in greater demand by advanced numismatists. Minute differences in contact marks can translate into huge prices. These are coins that show no evidence of circulation wear and look the same as when they were first minted. The differences within Mint State grades are determined by the quality of the strike, luster, severity and location of contact marks, and most importantly, the general eye appeal of the piece. An MS-60 coin is usually a rather unattractive coin, often accompanied by numerous bag marks and very weak strike. An MS-70 is near impossible to find among many older types, and for the most part, only modern issues are able to attain an MS-70. Terms like Choice Brilliant Uncirculated or “Gem BU” are commonly used numismatic jargon for MS-63 and MS-65 respectively.

Details Grades; There are multiple flaws that are considered undesirable and will result in a “details” grade, lowering the value of the coin. If it has been cleaned, scratched, mishandled, or suffered other environmental damage, it will be considered problematic. These pieces still receive a verbal descriptor of the overall condition, but are not assigned a number (ex. EF Details). Source

Collecting Strategies – A Coin for Each Year

A collecting strategy for some collectors is that of trying to accomplish a date set of coinage. While this objective seems simple, there are many areas and considerations collectors pursuing this goal can take into account. The foremost of these considerations is what date to begin with.

For some collectors, a choice is made to collect a coin for each date they have been alive. Others will choose a date such as their parents’ birthdates or another date significant to themselves. However, several have chosen to start with a date of historical importance. For many American collectors, the one-per-year set starts with 1792, the first year the United States Mint issued coinage; others choose 1793 – a far more affordable choice than a United States issue from 1792.

Others who are not concerned with the coinage solely being from the United States may choose a date such as 1776, in which often Spanish Colonial, British, or French coinage is required to fill the dates needed. Some American collectors will also choose a specific denomination, such as cents or half dollars and collect a single date for each year of their issue. However, these series are not continuous, with no cents being issued the United States bearing the 1815 date.

For collectors not exclusively focused on the coinage of the United States, this set offers tremendous possibilities for diversity and longevity. A set of coins dated from 1600 to present wouldn’t be inconsiderable to complete. The difficulty for dated coinage comes for coins dated before 1500, where European coinage can date from as early as 1234 (This coin being an anomaly) and dating coinage doesn’t become continuous until the 1500s.

Many earlier-dated pieces are extremely scarce, yet people do pursue collections of dated coinage before 1500 and make that their specialty. European coins started to see dates beginning as early as 1372, however this is uncommon. Prior to this, most coinage is not dated with a single date but can be attributed to date ranges. For example, Byzantine Empire early ancient coinages, among others, can sometimes be dated in years of the reigning monarch. These years often correspond to the ruler in power and not to a calendar, yet they can be translated to corresponding Gregorian calendar years. The practice of collecting one coin per year isn’t typically done with ancient coins.

Like any collecting strategy, the particulars of collecting one coin per year is up to the individual collector when it comes to how they pursue to their goals. Whether it is a defined goal of a date or a moving goal that changes as the collector moves towards completion, the one-per-date set is an achievable and often affordable option for those who want to show the passage of time and history with each coin they add to their collection. Source

How to Clean Coins Without Damaging Them

 

 

Unlock the secrets to cleaning coins without damaging them with our step-by-step guide! Whether you're dealing with old, silver, or copper coins, we've got you covered. Learn effective techniques using baking soda, dish soap, vinegar, salt, coke, or lemon juice. Whether you're a seasoned collector or just discovered a jar of old coins, this video will guide you through proper cleaning methods to restore their shine and reveal hidden beauty. From old coin basics to silver, copper, and more, tailor your approach to each unique coin. Discover safe and effective cleaning methods, and remember to prioritize the preservation of your prized possessions. 

Tips For Selling Your Sterling Silver Flatware

Silverware sets tend to get passed down for generations. Often, families own silverware and flatware that’s over a century old. While older generations often kept silverware sets as family heirlooms, younger counterparts are typically less interested in keeping them for sentimental value. After all, large sets of silverware and flatware can take up a significant amount of space and require polishing if pieces have become tarnished over the years. And not many people are willing to display or take the time to polish old candelabras or matching salt and pepper shakers along with their great-grandmother’s forks and spoons.

Fortunately, sterling silverware sets can be worth a decent amount of money, making it worth your time to sell that unwanted silverware. The price of any given silverware set can vary wildly due to several factors, including age, number of place settings, purity of the silver, weight, manufacturer, design, as well as the current market price for silver. If you decide to sell a sterling silverware set you no longer wish to keep, the following tips can help attain top dollar:

Silverware set pieces are either made from real sterling silver or with different metals and plated with silver. It’s integral to determine whether your flatware is sterling silver, coin silver, German silver, or plated silver before trying to sell it. The easiest way to tell? Look at the hallmarks from the manufacturer on the pieces. Those that are silver plated will be marked with phrases such as “silver plate,” “plated,” “EP” for electroplated, or “EPNS” for electroplated nickel silver. Additionally, if there are simply no markings on the silverware, the pieces are most likely silver plated.

Sterling silver flatware, on the other hand, is typically always marked as such. American-made sterling flatware have the hallmark “sterling” or the shortened “ster.” Silverware from other counties are often marked with “925,” which refers to the 92.5% concentration of silver in sterling silver objects. You may also come across flatware marked with the word “coin,” meaning the pieces are made from melted coins. This flatware is typically about 90% silver. Source

7 Most Common Coin Collecting Themes

1) Country Collection

Country collection is one of the favorite coin collecting themes. Coin collectors who collect coins from different countries do their best to get their hands on current or past coins from as many countries as possible. This type of coin collecting would most likely be never ending since many countries keep on changing their currencies.

2) Year Collection

Year collections focus more on a specific coin and denomination. Under year collection theme, a coin collector will collect his coins by year. For example, an enthusiastic collector of the Lincoln cent may collect all Lincoln coins from the date it was first created in 1909 up to the present.

The challenge in year collection is to complete the collection in terms of year. Once a collector has completed the set of Lincoln cents, he will move on to another type of coin and start over again. Many enthusiastic coin collectors who collect coins by year will be able to complete several sets of coins during their lifetime.

3) Error Collection

Error collections are coin collections that are more focused on coins with mistakes on them. The mistakes on these coins may be either be very obvious or not at all. Older coins will usually have more mistakes because coins were minted by hand before the 19th century.

Another very interesting error is mule. These coins are very interesting because each side of the coin has a different denomination. Coin collectors usually desire coins with errors because they are very unusual. These kind of coins can seldom be found them nowadays as minting has become fully automated.

4) Subject Collection

Subject collections are the collections where collectors collect coins which have a specific subject like a ship or animals marked on the coin. To expand the subject collection, the collector would have to do a lot of research to find out which countries have coins with the subject of his collection.

5) Type Collection

Sometimes coin collectors collect coins which are designed in a particular way. For instance, a coin collector may collect certain coins which have a hole in the center. There are some countries which create coins with a hole in the center. This collector will collect coins from different countries but with holes in the center.

6) Composition Collection

Even the coin composition can be a coin collection theme. Some coins are created with a combination of 2 or more metals. There are international coins which are composed of different kinds of metals. Some countries make their coins bimetal and some may use more than two combinations of metal for their coins.

7) Period Collection

Period collections are collections based on the period from which the coins were created. Some collections consist of coins from the Victorian era. Other collectors may go as far down history as the Byzantine or Greek period for their collections. There are several periods which can be the bases for period collection.

Although there are different kinds of coin collecting themes, most coin collectors are generalists and they simply prefer to have a little bit of everything. In reality, coin collecting preference is all up to the collector and does not have to depend on a certain theme. Whatever a collector fancies in a coin can be the basis for the collection.

Many collectors strive to surpass each other by procuring the most sought after coins available. Coin collecting has now become a sort of competition for the collectors. Most collectors wish to outwit and outshine others with their collection of coins. However, there are also coin collectors who are just proud of having a unique set of coins not found in any other collector's collection. Source

Ancient Coin Books and Catalogues You Should Have

 

 

Every ancient coin numismatist needs a good reference library, with catalogues and specialized literature on their hobby! Today, Classical Numismatics gives you some examples of good beginners catalogues and books.